Amino acids and peptides represent promising active ingredients in cosmetic industry. However, the use of peptides appears to be limited due to presumably low dermal bioavailability. Therefore, the aim of this work was to systematically investigate their galenic properties, bioavailability and metabolism employing model substrates. In relation to long-term stability and liberation an optimized o/w-emulsion was developed. Contrary to the relatively high penetration rates of amino acids, peptides preferably remained in the stratum corneum after topical application. N-terminal acylation was most effective in improving bioavailability. Metabolic studies demonstrated a rapid dermal metabolism. An in vivo-study with self-tanners showed that the endogenous amino acid profile in the stratum corneum does not cause so-called DHA-non-responder.
«Amino acids and peptides represent promising active ingredients in cosmetic industry. However, the use of peptides appears to be limited due to presumably low dermal bioavailability. Therefore, the aim of this work was to systematically investigate their galenic properties, bioavailability and metabolism employing model substrates. In relation to long-term stability and liberation an optimized o/w-emulsion was developed. Contrary to the relatively high penetration rates of amino acids, peptides...
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